The European city with cheap UK flights, famous lagoon spas and summers where the sun never sets

I OPEN my eyes and stare into total darkness.

I can’t even see my hand when it’s inches from my face — and with the noise of dripping water muffling the breath of the people next to me, I begin to fear I’m suddenly alone.

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Take in the stunning mountain views over Reykjavik[/caption]

Will I ever make it out?

When the lights finally flicker into action, illuminating the shiny, wet rocks of the cavernous tunnel once more, relief floods over me.

I am in Iceland’s most famous lava tunnel — Raufarhólshellir, almost a mile underground — not far from the capital Reykjavik.

It’s the result of a volcanic eruption that took place 5,200 years ago.

Even if you’re not a geography nerd — I’m not — it’s hard not to get swept up in it all when treading Iceland’s volcanic landscapes.

The country’s huge white glaciers and vast number of active volcanoes give it its nickname The Land of Fire and Ice.

It’s a deservedly dramatic title.

The first Reykjavik road I drove on was newly resurfaced, a recent eruption having caused a lava overflow to spill on to it.

The locals are so used to these that a fresh road can be laid in just days ­— but don’t stop your car to take pictures of the cinematic steam rising from the ground, as the heat bubbling beneath the tar can melt tyres.

Iceland’s fascinating geography isn’t all lava spills, though — its geo-thermal atmosphere has helped create some of the world’s most famous spas, including the Blue Lagoon a little south of Reykjavik.

While man-made, it’s heated by a geothermal power station that relies on energy from the volcanic ground.

The silica and minerals in the water, said to boost the immune system, turn the water a chalky shade of baby blue.

It was so relaxing to float in the bath-warm water, slapping algae masks and lava scrubs on my face from the lagoon-side beauty bar — all of which are included in your entry price.

But beauticians and wellness experts aren’t the only ones to take advantage of the lava landscapes here.

I even sampled lava BREAD during my stay.

The traditional rye dough is buried underground for 24 hours and the natural heat from the earth slowly cooks it.

And when you’re not admiring the wondrous ground you’re walking on, look to the sky, as Iceland is one of the best places in the world to spot the magnificent Northern Lights.

Never-ending daylight

Sadly, I didn’t stand a chance of spotting the colourful spectacle at this time of year.

But then I was experiencing something equally special — never-ending daylight.

The country’s unique position at the edge of the Arctic Circle means that from mid–May through to the end of July, the sun never fully sets.

That results in extremely dark winters — making them ideal for chasing the aurora borealis — and bright summers so bright that nearly every hotel bedroom features blackout blinds and eye masks are a necessity for proper kip.

That may sound torturous to those who cherish their beauty sleep, but I fully embraced it with late dinners and some more unusual nighttime activities.

A midnight tour by all-terrain vehicle (ATV) over rocky terrains and craggy cliff edges may not be your top choice in the UK, but during the summer solstice in Iceland it’s a truly magical experience.

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The Sun’s Sophie gets all kitted out for the ATV tour[/caption]

I’d never before driven an ATV — similar to a quad bike — but it didn’t take me long to learn before I was daringly roaring over muddy mounds and crashing through huge puddles as I climbed to the peak of the mountain to soak up breath-taking views over the majestic Reykjanes Peninsula.

I was buzzing with adrenaline from the adventure — so much that, even if it had been pitch-black outside, I still would have struggled to sleep that night.

But why would you waste your time sleeping when you could be soaking up the wonders of the Land of Fire and Ice?