THANKS to the latest series of White Lotus the beautiful Thai island of Koh Samui is fast becoming a bucket list holiday destination.
In this week’s episode, Songkran festival – the three-day New Year celebration where people are armed with water pistols takes a starring role – and I was there on the island last year as it unfolded.
Songkran sees hundreds of people celebrating with water pistols and foam[/caption]
The last time I played with water was when I was twelve.
Running through sprinklers with neighbourhood kids, armed with tiny, flimsy plastic water pistols – it made summer memorable.
Then adulthood hit and water belonged in glasses, showers, and pools.
Getting drenched wasn’t fun anymore. Yet here I was, 53, on Chaweng Beach Road in Koh Samui, about to join the biggest water fight of my life. What was I thinking?
Armed with the biggest weapon I could find, phone wrapped in plastic, I thought I was prepared, but nothing readies you for Songkran.
Immediately ambushed by a gang of laughing teens who fired in unison, I was already soaked.
After the initial shock, I returned fire. This was war and I’d give as good as I got.
Songkran is Thailand‘s traditional New Year celebration and the world’s largest water fight.
While its roots stretch back centuries as a respectful ceremonial washing to symbolise purification and cleaning away the previous year’s misfortunes, modern Songkran across Thailand has evolved into a no-holds-barred aquatic free-for-all.
The festival traditionally runs April 13-15, conveniently during Thailand’s hottest season.
Protective eye wear is a must for the biggest water pistol fight in the world[/caption]
Koh Samui fully embraces it, transforming into a wonderland of water warfare, music and food.
By noon, I was in a full-blown water war. Every Chaweng street became a battleground.
Pickup trucks converted to mobile water stations cruised through crowds, passengers armed with buckets and hoses, soaking everyone.
“Attack points” formed at intersections, where people waited to drench passing motorcyclists. No one was safe—not pedestrians, not diners, not observers.
Everywhere, people were laughing. Age, nationality, language – none of it mattered.
Elderly Thai women giggled as they smeared white paste on my cheeks, another Songkran tradition, originally made from a natural talcum powder and meant to ward off evil.
Tourists who moments before had been complete strangers formed impromptu alliances to attack passing tuk-tuks.
The battles continued all afternoon. I joined Australians, Swedes and Japanese to defend against a truck of water warriors.
We lost, celebrated with beers, and got soaked again while drinking.
Evening found me at a beachside party. Drenched, chalk-covered, drinking Chang beer as music played and waves crashed nearby.
A Thai man in his sixties toasted me. “Happy New Year,” he smiled. “In Thailand, we wash away the old year. Start clean.”
Looking at my soaked clothes, I laughed. “I couldn’t be cleaner.”
For three days, Koh Samui transformed. Water fights intensified daily with more and more elaborate setups appearing everywhere.
By the end, my skin was more wrinkled, I’d used six sunscreen bottles, and developed superhero reflexes.
I’d made friends from a dozen countries and experienced a wonderful celebration balancing tradition with fun.
Still damp, I realised Songkran had indeed washed away something old – perhaps some seriousness accumulated since my sprinkler days.
Isn’t that what New Year’s about? Beginning again, with a clean slate. I’d had a blast but next time, I’m definitely bringing a bigger water gun.
Here Are Our Top Tips For The Festival
For anyone heading to the Songkran festival – here are Emma’s top tips
Be respectful: Do not splash water on monks, the elderly, pregnant women, or babies.
Dress modestly: Respect the Thai culture & avoid outfits that are way too revealing.
Carry a waterproof bag: Keep your phone, money & other valuables safe from water damage.
Drink plenty of water: Carry a refillable bottle and refill regularly.
Wear a hat or cap: Keep the burning sun off your head and neck.
Apply sunscreen: It’s very easy to get burnt once you’re wet, so apply sunscreen often.
Avoid water in your eyes & ears: Use goggles & earplugs if prone to ear & eye infections.
Observe local rules: Follow the regulations in your area such as designated zones for water fights and use only clean water.
Water guns are sold everywhere: Have fun!
The Songkran festival runs for three days[/caption]
